Whatever it is doing
Better Call Fares.
Flat quote before I start. Fixed in your driveway. Old parts in your hand. We come to you.
Mobile mechanic, Mississauga, Oakville, Milton, Brampton and Etobicoke
I do diagnostics at your home or work anywhere in Mississauga, Oakville, Milton, Brampton and Etobicoke. I diagnose it where the car sits, quote one flat price before any work, and hand you the old parts when it is done.
From $60. Flat quote before any work.
5.0 on Google. Real jobs written up with the actual price paid, read them.
Prefer to text? 647-450-0406. I read them between jobs.
Thirty seconds. Price range right away, then real time slots you can book yourself.
Real jobs, real numbers
Every job below was paid for, priced flat before I started, and written up with the customer’s permission. Never a name, never a city.
“Fares did some major repairs on my GTI, including brakes, rear main seal and transmission fluid change. He is professional, capable and courteous. Despite the terrible weather he persevered, and got the job done. Very happy with his work.”Google review, five stars, August 2026
“Fares came by and did the brakes on my 2021 Lexus RX350. I got quoted way more at a shop so I decided to try a mobile mechanic instead. He showed up on time, did the work in my driveway, and everything went smoothly.”Google review, five stars, 2021 Lexus RX350
“Wonderful and quick experience, charged me way less than the dealer and he did the work in my driveway in the cold. I really appreciate all the hard work.”Google review, five stars
Everything else in writing, the warranty, what I won’t do in a driveway, and who is actually showing up: read the trust page.
A check-engine light is information, not a verdict. It means the computer logged a fault code, and that code points to a system, not a specific broken part. The light alone can't tell you whether you're looking at a $40 fix or a $1,400 one. That's the whole job: reading what the car is actually telling you before anyone touches a wrench.
I come to wherever your car is, driveway, work parking lot, the side of the road, and pull the codes with a real bidirectional scan tool, not the $20 plug-in code reader they hand you at the parts store. Then I read live data, run the actual tests, and tell you what's wrong before you spend a single dollar on parts. No guessing, no upsell, no "we'll start with this and see."
The big one. I pull every stored and pending code, read freeze-frame data from when the fault tripped, and trace it to the actual cause, fuel trims, sensor readings, the works. You get the real answer, not a parts-cannon guess.
From $60ABS and traction-control faults live in their own module that a basic code reader can't even see. I scan the ABS module directly, wheel speed sensors, the pump, tone rings, and tell you why the light's on.
From $60An airbag light means part of your restraint system is offline, it might not deploy in a crash. I read SRS codes most shops can't, point to the cause (clock spring, seat sensor, a connector under the seat), and tell you what it takes to clear it.
From $60Crank-no-start, dead-no-crank, parasitic battery drain, lights and windows acting up. I test the actual circuit, power, ground, signal, instead of throwing a battery or starter at it and hoping.
From $60Misfire, stalling, rough idle, hesitation, no power. These leave a trail in live data, misfire counts per cylinder, fuel trims, O2 response. I read it and find which cylinder and which component is the problem.
From $60The hard ones, the light that comes and goes, the stall that only happens warm, the gremlin no shop could pin down. I capture freeze-frame and live data to catch what a quick code-read misses.
Quoted on-site1. Scan. I plug in the bidirectional scan tool and pull every code, engine, transmission, ABS, SRS, body modules, plus the pending codes a basic reader never shows. I read the freeze-frame data so I know exactly what the car was doing when the fault tripped.
2. Live data & active tests. Codes are a starting point, not the answer. I watch live sensor data with the engine running and, where the tool supports it, command components directly, cycle a solenoid, fire an injector, test an actuator, to confirm what's actually failing instead of guessing from the code alone.
3. Pinpoint the real cause. I trace the fault to the specific component or circuit. A code that says "lean bank 1" could be a vacuum leak, a weak fuel pump, or a dirty MAF sensor. I find out which one it is on your car, not which one is most common.
4. Flat quote before any repair. You get a clear, flat price for the fix, parts and labour, before I touch anything. No HST, no surprise line items, no "we found a few other things." If you want to think about it or shop the price, that's completely fine.
5. The diagnostic fee rolls into the repair. If you have me do the repair, the diagnostic fee comes off the bill, you're not paying twice. And if it doesn't fix the problem, you don't pay full price. That's the guarantee.
A shop diagnostic usually means a tow or a nerve-wracking drive with a light on, then leaving your car for a day and waiting on a callback. I come to you, driveway, office lot, wherever it sits, scan it on the spot, and you hear the answer from the person who actually read the data. You're there for the whole thing. No drop-off, no rental, no mystery. And you already serve real customers this way: I handle diagnostics for a used-car dealer in Oakville, including a 2023 Ram 2500 Cummins diesel, heavy-duty stuff, done in their lot.
This is the part shops won't always tell you: a fault code points to a system, not a guaranteed broken part. The classic is P0420, "catalyst efficiency below threshold." Half the internet will tell you that's a $1,200 catalytic converter. But a P0420 is often a lazy or dead downstream O2 sensor reading the cat wrong, or even a small exhaust leak letting air skew the readings. Replace the cat on a bad O2 sensor and you just spent four figures and the light comes right back.
Same story with a misfire. A P0301 tells you cylinder 1 is misfiring, it does not tell you why. That could be the ignition coil, the spark plug, a leaking or clogged injector, a vacuum leak, or low compression from a mechanical problem. Six different causes, six very different price tags, one code. The only way to know is to test each one, swap the coil to a different cylinder and see if the misfire follows, check the plug, watch the injector, run a compression test.
This is exactly why parts-store "free code reads" cost people money. They hand you a printout that says "P0420" and you walk out thinking you need a converter, so you buy one, or a shop sells you one, and the problem isn't fixed. Throwing parts at it is the number one way people overspend on car repairs. I test, I don't guess. You pay once, for the right fix.
More on second opinions & pricing
Whatever it is doing
Flat quote before I start. Fixed in your driveway. Old parts in your hand. We come to you.